Thursday, July 19, 2012

Don't ask a mzungu for directions.

I didn’t know what to write about this week, so here are some descriptions for you of things/places I am experiencing:

Matatus/Taxis: Those vehicles made for 15 at most, but which somehow manage to seat at least 18-20 grown adults. Add 5+ to that number if some of those present are children.

Good signs when you're in a taxi:
  • You get a seat by a functioning window.
  • You don't get ripped off.
  • The taxi is almost full when you get in (although not too full because then you will end up getting squished in someplace that wasn’t meant to fit anyone bigger than a twig.
Bad signs:
  • You are one of the first ones in. You'll probably end up waiting a long time  until every single seat is full.
  • The driver gets out on one of the stops. This is often an indication you'll be there for a while.
  • You are charged 3 times the regular rate and don't realize it until it is too late.
  • The taxi is so full the guy who takes the money can't sit down, so instead stands hunched over those in the first seat.
  • The driver makes a U-turn.
  • The taxi needs to be push-started.
Taxi poaching:
This happened to me yesterday.  I waved to stop a taxi, but it didn't see me in time so when it stopped it was a ways away from me. As I was walking to get in it, another taxi swooped in behind it, stopped, and basically pulled me in. All the while the people in the taxi were laughing hysterically. I'm guessing this was probably bad taxi etiquette. 

I do actually really appreciate the matatus. They take you where you need to go and aren't too expensive. The price to go to a town about 2 hours away only costs the equivalent of about $1.50. Compare that to taxis (or even a bus) at home and it's easy to be appreciative, despite the cramped conditions!

Lugazi: The town I'm living in. Situated between Jinja and Kampala, two of Uganda's major cities.

Those of you who know me well know I'm awful at estimating numbers, so I won't even try to guess at the population size.

Some things I can tell you:
  • It is VERY dusty here. My contacts and Lugazi are not getting along very well so far. Along the sides of the roads even the banana/palm leaves are covered in a layer of dust. The only time I feel clean is right after I get out of the shower.
  • You can't go anywhere without children shouting "mzungu, mzungu!" at you. Sometimes they even make up little songs using the word mzungu. Even at night children somehow manage to see you and try to get your attention. Apparently white people basically glow in the dark. (note: Mzungu means white person/foreigner or something of the sort)
  • Sometimes random people speak to us in a really high-pitched voice. example: "Hi mzungu, how are you?" said in a pitch about 2 octaves higher than anyone I know speaks. Haven't really figured this one out yet.
  • Women here dress so nicely! Their clothes are always ironed and their shoes are mud-free. I honestly don't know how they keep so clean, but I would like to know their secret. Also they seem about a million times more graceful than most American women (myself included).
  • Chapati (this delicious like-a-tortilla-but-way-better food) is sold all over the place, always tempting us to buy way too many, way too often. 
Kampala: The capital city of Uganda.
  • The driving seems so chaotic. Not only is there always a massive amount of traffic, but people, bicycles, and boda bodas (motorcycle taxis) are always weaving in between the cars. People walk through the traffic selling newspapers, posters, food/drinks, and other random objects.
  • Sometimes you stop at green lights and go on red lights. I haven't figured this out either. I think your best bet is to just follow whatever the car in front of you is doing.
  • They have mochas in Kampala! Also other home-like foods. The other day I went into a supermarket in Kampala and bought what look like Teddy-Grahams, just because they reminded me of something I might buy at home.
In other news:
  •  If you have a Facebook or Twitter account, follow YOFAFO. My job for the next 6 months is mostly dealing with Social Media. I apologize in advance for some lame tweets, but I’m new at Twitter, so hopefully those will improve.
  •  I visited my host family from the last time I was here today, and it was unbelievably good to see them and be back at the house.
  • Drink some ice water for me. It is something I didn’t appreciate enough when I had the chance.
  • A lady from the US Embassy visited one of YOFAFO’s project sites the other day (related to a grant we are applying for), and I got to ride in their snazzy car. It even had air conditioning! It was kind of a funny though, we had to sign a waiver to go in the car with them. 

Wednesday, July 11, 2012

Hello from Lugazi!


 A week and a half. That’s how long I have been in Uganda. Somehow it feels like much longer already. I feel I have settled in and can easily see spending the next six months here.

It was strange coming back. So many things are the same, yet so much has changed. I am in a new town, meeting new people, learning new words but have also seen old friends, eaten familiar food, and have walked the same streets that I walked every day for almost 4 months. I admit I was nervous coming. Nervous about the differences. I had such an amazing time when I was here a couple of years ago but knew this trip would be so different. I was worried it wouldn’t live up to my memories. After being here even a short time I realize I didn’t need to worry. Yes, the circumstances are different, but I can already tell what an amazing time I will have. It is also comforting to know that I live close enough to Mukono (the town I lived in when I studied abroad), that I can go back to the familiar whenever I feel the need.

The organization I am interning with is called Youth Focus Africa Foundation (YOFAFO), and so far I am very impressed. They focus on education, healthcare and microfinance in three villages near Lugazi. I live in volunteer housing in Lugazi within the same compound as the director/founder of the organization, Valence, his wife, Doreen, and their two children, Jo (Joshua, 3 ½) and Beth (1 ½).  They are a lovely family, and I can already tell how passionate Valence and Doreen are about the organization. Their dreams for the future are inspiring and I already feel confident that they truly are making a difference in these communities.

While I am sad to miss very important happenings at home- the birth of my nephew, seeing my friend’s new babies grow, my cousin’s wedding, birthdays, holidays, etc.- I also feel as if I am where I am supposed to be at this time in my life. I can’t imagine feeling peace about being here otherwise.

Speaking of peace, I have discovered (or was shown, rather) one of the most peaceful places I have ever been. It is called the Rainforest Lodge, and as the name suggests, is in the rainforest. After driving to another town about ten minutes from Lugazi, you turn off the main road onto a path/dirt road and after a couple of kilometers, see this massive lodge-like building hiding in the midst of the forest. It feels very remote, which definitely adds to the appeal.  Every time I have visited there hasn’t been more than a couple of others there. Today I went and used the upstairs sitting area of the restaurant (nice comfy chairs and out in the open air) as my “office” for the day. I drank tea, spent some time working on my laptop, and just enjoyed the peacefulness. You can see monkeys in the trees surrounding the lodge, and the other day a friend and I spotted what looked like a chameleon on one of the columns. I’m sure I will be spending a lot of time there in the months to come.

There are two other young women staying at YOFAFO right now, teachers from Canada. They are tons of fun and have made the adjustment much easier. We arrived within days of each other, and it has been nice to explore Lugazi with others who are also new. Amy, the woman who was doing my job before I got here, just left yesterday. I was so glad that our time overlapped. Not only was it very helpful to talk to her about what she has been doing, what she will continue to do from Australia, and what I will take over, but it was also just good to know her as a person. She is so kind and thoughtful and I know we would have had a great time together had she been able to stay longer.

Over the past six months or so, I have had some strange encounters where I have been asked if I am: South African, Canadian, British, and Brazilian. I can now add Australian to the list. I was with Amy, who is actually Australian, when I was asked so I guess it makes a little more sense than the other times but I still find it funny, strange, and maybe just a little concerning. Especially because the question came from someone from New Zealand, who it seems would know better. I always thought I spoke with an American accent, but now I’m beginning to wonder…   :  )

Now that Amy has returned home I am just starting to get to work. The last week and a half has been spent visiting YOFAFO programs, doing some exploring, and getting over jet lag. It was nice to have some time to adjust, but now I am ready and excited to get to work. Talking with Amy and Valence has inspired ideas and I can’t wait to start. However, my schedule is very flexible and I look forward to having time to do some fun things around Uganda as well.  

I feel so blessed to be back in Uganda, learning from YOFAFO, meeting new people, and seeing old friends. I hope wherever you are, you are also feeling life's blessings and the excitement of what is here and what is to come.